Porto Covo is a small but stunning village on the Alentejo coastline. It is located approximately 170 km south of Lisbon, within the Sines municipality in the Alentejo region. The small village, which is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, has roughly 1000 inhabitants. During the summer, however, the population swells with vacationers and tourists. Attracted by its stunning beaches with warm (ish for the Atlantic) and crystal-clear waters. As popular as it might sound, Porto Covo, like most parts of the Alentejo region, remains somewhat unexplored by those visiting the country. Managing to keep its fishing village ambiance and pristine coast.
A Brief Introduction on Porto Covo’s History
Human occupation in the area which is now the civil parish of Porto Covo can be tracked back to the Carthaginians trading on the coast. During the Roman times, the nearby Pessegueiro Island (Ilha do Pessegueiro) was used as a fish processing centre. By the early 18th century Porto Covo already had a great importance not only for fishing commerce, but also as one of the main ports on the coast. It was used as a hub to transport Alentejo meat and coal north to Lisbon.
The village, however, was still a small settlement of approximately 4 houses in 1780. It was only in the late 18th century that Lisbon merchant Jacinto Fernandes Bandeira came up with a plan to develop the settlement. With influences of the Pombaline Lisbon downtown, the ambitious plan included a church, two squares, hospital, prison facility, a store house, the city council, and residential buildings.
Unfortunately, from the original plan only the church and square were carried out. And the number of houses increased from 4 to 20. Now, in the late 19th century, the civil parish expanded even more with the construction of Sines Industrial complex and port. And the economy made a gradual shift towards tourism.
How to Get to Porto-Covo
For those driving, there are two main roads into Porto Covo. The M554 which will take you straight to a car park in the village’s historic centre. Although it can get quite busy during Summer, this car park is great for those who want to explore the village before heading to the smaller beaches nearby.
Alternatively, the M1109 runs along the coast and it’s a more scenic route. That will take you through the larger beaches slightly further away, before ending up in the village. Overall, Porto Covo beaches are not far from the village, and almost all of them have an allocated car park. Parking on the sea front can be a great option for those heading straight to the beach.
Can you Visit Porto Covo with Public Transport?
If you opt to get to Porto Covo with public transport, bus operators ‘Renex’ and ‘Rede Expressos’ both offer direct trips departing from Lisbon’s main train stations. Return tickets cost between €31.40 and €34.00. The duration of the journey varies from 2h10m and 3h10m depending on the route. The drop off is inside the village near the municipal market. If you plan to take the bus, keep in mind the last bus to Lisbon departs at 18.55PM.
So, we recommend that those planning a day trip to Porto Covo, take the first bus from Lisbon, which departs at 7.30AM. This way you will have time enough to see everything and enjoy the beach as much as possible! For those heading from different parts of the Alentejo, you might have to connect to Porto Covo from Sines. The line is also operated by Rede Expressos, and it costs €14 return.
What to See and Do in Porto Covo
As we’ve mentioned Porto Covo is relatively small, and can easily be explored on foot. Wondering the different streets will lead you to many charming corners and small streets of painted houses.
Largo Marquês de Pombal – Marquês de Pombal Square
At the heart of the village, is the picturesque Marquês de Pombal Square with its pretty white and blue houses and bright red doors. The square follows the original Pombaline architecture plan and it’s rather large for a small fishing village. It has the characteristic openness and symmetry of the style named after its visionary, the Marquis of Pombal.
The little plaza is connected to the village by four main accesses. And aside from being very charming, it’s a lovely place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee or a meal while watching the atmosphere change as people start to arrive for a day on the beach.
The little plaza also houses the village’s only church, Igreja de Porto Covo. An 18th century baroque church built at the same time as the square, and also painted in the characteristic blue and white colours of the village. Unfortunately, at the time the church isn’t open for individual visitors and those that are interested in seeing inside will have to contact Sines Museum to arrange a visit.
Wonder the Pretty Streets of Porto Covo
Porto Covo is full of pretty streets and Instagrammable houses, and as the village is quite small you can see everything in just a couple of hours by walking. Rua Vasco da Gama is the main street that connects the square to the sea front, and the busier street of the village. It’s filled with cafés, restaurants and local shops. So, if you are looking for souvenirs or gifts to take back home that’s where you will find it! The streets that run parallel to the main street all lead to the sea front, and although a bit less lively, they are very pretty with matching blue and white houses.
The Best Beaches in Porto Covo
The Alentejo coast has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. Since it’s not the most obvious holiday destination in Portugal, its coastline has remained somewhat unspoiled. In Porto Covo this preservation is most noticeable, and the visitors can choose from several sandy beaches with turquoise waters. Sheltered by cliffs, the beaches are on small bays and coves therefore are great for bathing too. They are one next to the other, and their names are marked with cute hand painted tile signs explaining where their names came from.
Although there are plenty of parking spaces, the access to any of the beaches is through uneven stairs. Which makes them not accessible for people with disabilities.
Praia dos Buizinhos
Praia dos Buizinhos is the nearest to the village, to the left of the viewpoint Miradouro de Porto Covo. It’s a lovely beach, with a small stretch of sand that can get quite busy at peak summer. In an almost perfect semi-circle shape, it’s nicely sheltered so it’s great for swimming, and families. But since it’s not monitored by lifeguards, small children and unexperienced swimmers shouldn’t be left unattended. It’s called Praia dos Buizinhos due to the abundance of a type of shell, búzios, that’s used a lot by local artisans in their arts and crafts. Plenty of parking space is available nearby.
Praia da Gaivota
Within just a couple of minutes-walk from Praia dos Buizinhos, is Praia da Gaivota. A tiny beach that’s only accessible in low tide. It’s more rocky so it’s not as good for swimming as Buizinhos, but it’s perfect for those who want some peace and quiet while enjoying the sun. To get to Praia da Gaivota you need first to get to Praia do Banho then go through an opening on the rock on the left side of the beach. This secluded tiny stretch of sand doesn’t have any facilities or lifeguards, and since the entry is through the cliffs, it might not be for everyone. A single car park is shared by those visiting Praia dos Buizinhos, Praia da Gaivota, and Praia do Banho so parking close to the beach might be difficult.
Praia do Banho
Right next to Praia da Gaivota it’s the stunning Praia do Banho, our favourite beach in Porto Covo. Its bay faces slightly inwards, so it has calm waters and crystal-clear natural pools. It’s also more protected from the wind, and the sand stretch is wider than the previous two. If the tide is low enough, you can walk to a different inlet to the right of Praia do Banho. Which is more secluded and absolutely beautiful.
The name Praia do Banho, meaning Bathing Beach, comes from an old tradition of bathing in the sea every 29th of August. According to the tradition known as O Banho 29, which is believed to have pagan origins, a single bathing on that specific day counts as bathing for 9 days. Cleansing and purifying the souls of those who would come from the countryside to the coast to participate in the event.
Praia do Espingardeiro
Praia do Espingardeiro is another one of Porto Covo’s incredible beaches! It’s sandwiched between Praia do Banho and Praia Grande. And to get to the beach you will have to go down on a small ungraded cliff path. The short walk will be rewarded with this stunning beach with calmer turquoise sea that resembles a swimming pool.
The small bay is protected by tall cliffs, so it has great protection against the winds from the Atlantic. However, during the high tide the stretch of sand, which is already small, is reduced significantly. Again, this beach doesn’t have any lifeguards or facilities, so if these are key factors for you, perhaps the next-door Praia Grande might be a better option.
Praia Grande de Porto Covo
Praia Grande, as hinted by the name, is the biggest beach in Porto Covo. It’s among the 41 beaches in the Alentejo coast awarded with the Blue Flag in 2023. It has a large car park, toilets, and a small beach bar/restaurant. Being somewhat less sheltered than the other beaches, the sea can be quite choppy depending on the weather conditions, so it’s great for surfing and body-boarding. But we’ve been to Praia Grande on several occasions where the sea was very smooth.
Overall, since it’s life guarded during Summer, it’s suitable for families and less experienced swimmers. On low tide, if the main portion of the beach is too packed, you can walk towards the right side of the beach to find other two smaller beaches; Praia da Cerca Nova, and the naturist Praia do Salto.
The downside is that being a Blue Flag beach, we expected it to be more accessible, but it only has a wooden staircase thus is not very inclusive.
Somewhere to Stay in Porto Covo
Although essentially a small fishing village, Porto Covo has a great variety of accommodations for those planning to stay for longer. From your typical guest house to a high-end spa hotel, there are plenty of options to choose from. For a luxury experience, Porto Covo Praia Hotel & SPA has a stunning swimming pool and spacious rooms, some of them with ocean views! For a more cosy experience, Ocean House Alentejo has well decorated rooms and a lovely breakfast. The guesthouse is just a 2 minutes-walk from the village’s square and where most restaurants are. You can take a look at the full range of options with this list here!
Where to Eat in Porto Covo
While Porto Covo doesn’t have a big array of restaurants, it has the all-time classics of a Portuguese holiday village. A pizzeria, a barbecue place, and a handful of seafood restaurants with the freshest of fish! Our favourite one is Zé Inácio, great for charcoal grilled fish and seafood, but also fish cataplanas and stews, and the classic black pork. It’s also fairly priced and the atmosphere is lovely too!
Hiking in Porto Covo – The Fishermen’s Trail
For more active visitors, and those interested in hiking or trekking, Porto Covo’s municipality is part of one of the stages of The Fishermen’s Hiking Trail. The trail runs almost entirely alongside the coast, and it has a total length of 226,5km and 13 stages. Being part of a bigger route called Rota Vicentina. In Porto Covo, it starts in the Largo do Mercado, going all the way down to Vila Nova de Milfontes. With moderate difficulty, it will take you through dramatic cliffs, secluded beaches, and dunes. You can find more details on the official website of the Fishermen’s trail and Rota Vicentina.
Should You Visit Porto Covo?
Porto Covo is a great place to visit! It combines the charm of a Portuguese small village with jaw dropping beaches, coves, and cliffs. It’s also great stopping point for those travelling between Lisbon and the Algarve. In Porto Covo you will be able to try some of the Alentejo coastal cuisine such as fish stews and cataplanas, and the classic black pork. For those whose priorities are enjoying the beach, it’s a great place to stay for a day or two. From Porto Covo you can also visit Vila Nova de Milfontes, located only 20km away!
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